|
|
|
Gomer's Midtown Weekly Newsletter
Making Natural Wine in California.
I like to keep my ear to the ground for interesting developments in
other markets. One hot-button topic in the world of wine is the concept
of "natural winemaking." There isn't really a firm definition, per se,
but in talking to supporters of the movement, here's a relatively
reliable summary:
Natural winemaking is a series of choices by a winemaker based on
interfering as little as possible with a wine, and to add as little as
possible to it (many people would be shocked by how many things it is
legal to add to wine, and how many wines produced in industrial volume
use these additions). Minimal Sulfur Dioxide is allowed to protect the
wine from oxygen. The wines are fermented with native yeasts (found on
the grape or in the vineyard, never cultivated) only. The resulting
product is unfined and unfiltered.
It's a bit of a high-wire act. Handle the wine poorly, and you have
vinegar (or worse!). Do it properly, and the results can be thrilling,
silky, vividly-fruited (albeit cloudy) wines. The movement took hold in
France, and mostly in off-the-beaten path areas, where iconoclasts
tended to thrive. A couple of New York importers began focusing heavily
on the "natural" producers, and now they are quite trendy in New York's
best wine bars.
Several California winemakers have become interested in natural
winemaking, including Dashe, one of my favorite Zinfandel producers. I
was speaking about a month ago with a friend in the wine business in
New York, and he mentioned a Dashe wine called Les Enfants Terribles, a
naturally-made Zinfandel. Dashe has been available in the market for
several years, and a couple of phone calls produced not just a zippy,
lively, middleweight "natural" Zinfandel, but a wonderfully cherry
bright Grenache as well.
So, I present to you the first wines from the natural wine movement
available in Kansas City. They are, for the moment, very limited. I
have 23 bottles of Zinfandel (I bought the other one) and 12 bottles of
Grenache (they sent a sample, so I have an entire case for customers!).
I have not put them on the shelf. They are reserved for email list
members until next Wednesday - because I don't have much, I am limiting
this wine to two Zin and one Grenache per customer - respond fast if
you are interested.
Dashe Cellars 2009 Les Enfants Terribles Dry Creek Valley Grenache - $24.99/bt
Dashe Cellars 2009 Les Enfants Terribles 'McFadden Farm' Potter Valley Zinfandel - $24.99/bt
Iconic California White!
Two things you'll hear a lot about California Chardonnay - it's too
oaky and it won't age. I have a wine that is one of the greatest
exceptions to those rules; one that comes from one of California's
greatest wineries and one of it's best-kept secrets.
Kalin Cellars is a small, 7,000 case winery based in Marin County that
is legendary amongst wine geeks for their brilliant wines seldom
released with less than a decade of age, and frequently closer to two.
The winery was founded in 1977 by Terry and Frances Leighton - still
the winery's only two "employees." They are true artisans, using
time-honored and proven methods to transform grapes into ageworthy wine.
The wine world is always out looking for the "next big thing,"
but some of the greatest wine critics and writers have repeatedly
called Kalin's wines amongst the greatest produced in California. More
importantly, they are amongst the most stunning values. To hold
inventory for 15 years, when more is produced each year, is
cost-prohibitive for all but a few wineries. But Kalin has managed to
do it, and continues to do it.
We are offering 24 bottles of Kalin's 1994 (that's right!) Cuvee
LD Chardonnay, from Jasper Long's Dry Creek Vineyard . Limit two per
customer, and ifrst-come, first-served and reserved for my email
readers. I have been fortunate to experience what white wines can
become when mature, and now you can too for a price that is so
reasonable that it's remarkable! The wine is due to arrive next week,
but reserve yours now to guarantee access (orders filled in the order
received, wine must be picked up by September 8th or paid for and held
for you).
This wine is ready to drink. It has, for all intents and purposes,
beencellared on your behalf at the winery. The wine inside is a golden
color that is noticeable even through the bottle. This is correct.
Don't worry. This is what great white wine becomes with time.
Kalin Cellars 1994 'Cuvee LD' Dry Creek Chardonnay - $34.49/bt
Other Upcoming Events!
August 31st - Australian Wine Tasting
If you can't remember when Australian wine was more than just clever
labels and Parkerized fruit bombs, you need to try wines from The
Premium Australian Wine Collection. Australia is much more diverse a
wine culture than most people realize! Drop by after 5:30PM this
Tuesday and check it out.
September 29th - Farm House Dinner and Martine's Wines
Fortunately, we learned with a month to go that we have to change the
date on ths dinner. Instead of the 28th, it will be on the 29th.
We're partnering up with the Farm House in the River Market to feature
delicious French wines from Martine Novato's import portfolio. Cost of
the dinner is tentatively $75 plus tax and tip, with 40 spots
available. The Farm House is very seasonal, so menu details will be
forthcoming...
Jim Coley
Wine Director
Gomer's Midtown
August 24th Newsletter
August 13th Newsletter
August 6th Newsletter
July 30 Newsletter
July 23 Newsletter
July 16 Newsletter
|
|
