|
|
|
Gomer's Midtown Weekly Newsletter
Time to Rethink Bordeaux
If you follow the wine world, even in a fairly casual fashion, you will
likely have heard that Bordeaux prices are spiraling every upward into
the stratosphere. We have had, in nine years, three "vintage of the
century" candidates. The most recent thus branded, 2009, has been
touted in critical circles as "greatest ever" and "surpassing 2005."
The wines, not due to be released for another year, are not even
bottled, yet the simple promise of a first growth like Lafite or Latour
has made some collectors open their wallets to the tune of thousands of
dollars a bottle. That's right. Per bottle.
All the hype, and all the obscene pricing lead me to ponder a question,
can a wine region simultaneously deliver the worst value and the best
value in the world? After consideration, I think the answer may be
"yes."
So how would that work? Well, you have to remember that there are
thousands of estates scattered across Bordeaux, and the hype-driven
futures buzz applies to a couple dozen of them. This is sad, because
Bordeaux produces some of the most flavorful, ageworthy, delicious red
wine for less than $20 to be had. Perhaps only the Rhone can make a
similar claim. South America and Spain deliver good values, but they
are not wines that typically reward 10 years in the cellar, where I am
just finishing a case of $9 Bordeaux Supieur from the 1996 vintage.
Outside the top end, Bordeaux is in trouble. The region reminds me of a
car company that specializes in making the very best cars for less than
$20,000, but spends its entire marketing budget touting its line of
limited-production sports cars for $1,000,000 or more. Doug Frost and I
have spoken about how it was possible for young wine professionals to
put together enough money to purchase a top classified growth and share
a bottle. That's no longer the case.
So I am trying to move us away from the critics/points/futures/$100+
Bordeaux world and bring in more every day wines. I like the idea of
supporting small farmers that labor to bring value and passion both to
your table. More importantly, I really like these wines a lot. All for
are enjoyable now, but will evolve for at least five years if
well-stored. The Lalande-de-Pomerol, a region near the most prestigious
Pomerol, will evolve for a decade.
Four different wines ranging from just under $10 to just under $20. Look for these and more this Fall and Winter!
Ch. Bel Air l'Esperance 2008 Bordeaux - $8.99/bt
Ch. Tour Chapoux 2008 Bordeaux - $11.49/bt
Ch. Tour Castillon 2006 Cru Bourgeois Medoc - $15.29/bt
Ch. Graves de Marchessan 2007 Lalande-de-Pomerol - $19.49/bt
New Chappellet 'Signature Cabernet'
My reputation in the local wine trade is "The Francophile." While
there's considerable truth to that, I do love more than just one
country's wines. When I worked in Princeton in what was a very heavily
European wine shop, the owner (somewhat derisively) referred to me as
"The California Expert" because I experimented with more West Coast
wines than any of my co-workers. I did also spend two years running a
wine program at Starker;s that was nationally famous for its devotion
to California - with Cabernet as King.
I noticed over the past few years that, when I reach for a fancy
Cabernet Sauvignon, it is almost invariably from California. I lost
interest in high-end Bordeaux, in part because the greed of the
producers leaves me cold, in part because the style of wine Bordeaux
has begun to make is richer than ever, and, in my frank opinion,
California does that style better.
Donn Chappellet's winery continues to produce one of the best values in
luxury Cabernet. The limited 'Pritchard Hill' Estate Cabernet is one of
the few wines I would even consider paying over $100 for, and the 06
'Pritchard Hill' Estate Cabernet Franc was one of my best wines of the
year so far. The greatest value is to be found in the 'Signature'
Cabernet, which has gone from strength to strength over the past five
years.
The 2008 Signature has just been released. The 06 and 07 vanished
quickly due to high scores and high quality. With cooler weather here,
why not treat yourself to a lush, blackcurrant and cassis infused
California Cab?
Chappellet 2008 'Signature' Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvigon - $49.99/bt
Upcoming Events!
November - Look like we'll be adding another Wasington guest to our
Gramercy Cellars tasting. We will also have a grower Champagne tasting
in early December.
Jim Coley
Wine Director
Gomer's Midtown
Oct 20 Newsletter
October 1 Newsletter
September 3rd Newsletter
August 29th Newsletter
August 24th Newsletter
August 13th Newsletter
August 6th Newsletter
July 30 Newsletter
July 23 Newsletter
July 16 Newsletter
|
|
